Shoe machine and method



Ap 30, 1940. K. ENGEL SHOE MACHINE AND METHOD Filed June 8, 1939 3 Sheets-Sheet l April 30, 1940. K. ENGE L.

I SHOE MACHINE AND METHOD 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed June 8, 1939 April 30, 1940.

K. ENGEL SHOE MACHINE AND METHOD Filed June 8, 1939 5 Sheets-Sheet 3 Patented Apr. 30;, 1940 STATE PATE aorrlcs 2,198,866 f SHOE'MACHIILTE mp ME'rnon 1 Karl Engel, Swampscott, Mass, assignor toUnited- \with'the shoe part tOWhiCh it is to be united and .Shoe Machinery Corporation,

Borough of j Flemington, N. J., a corporation of New Jersey Application June 8, 1939, Serial No. 2"78', 11 7 27 Claims. (c1.'12- 52) The present invention relates to machines and methods for use in the manufacture of shoes having moccasin toe pieces and is hereinillustrated as embodied in a machine for assembling the toe piece withanothershoe part, for example, a

vamp member, and'as practiced in a method of toepieces with the foreany and all types of footwear having moccasin toelpieces.

Itiis an object ofqthe present invention to facilitate theassembling of a moccasin toe piece to eliminate much of the hand labor heretofore involved in the assembling operation.

With the above object in View, a feature or the invention consists in theprovision, in a machine for .use in the. manufactureof shoes having moccasin toe pieces, of a toe piece engaging means herein illustrated: asp-a. fixed die having means projectingfrom its work engaging face for en.

gaging the margin of. a toe piece supported thereomand means, herein illustrated as a jmov-" abledie, constructed and arranged to coact with said fixed die. to form a marginal flange in the toe piece, said diesbeing so constructed that the margin of a toe :pieceheld between them is exposed for attachmentto anothershoe part. The

illustrated movable die has the general outline of thetoe piece on a smaller scale and its edge face affords an abutment against which the marginal flange formed in the toe piece is positioned in the course of the flange forming operation. ,In

accordance with a (further feature of the invenf tion,the illustrated :machine is provided with means, herein illustrated as a presser member, for

pressing the. top marginof .a shoe part, for example a vampyniember, against the marginal flange formed inthe ltoe piece. When the ma chine is at rest, thepresser member is located in aposition remote from the fixed die in order to facilitatethe. positioning of the vamp member frelativelyto atoe'piece held between the dies.

the operation of the machine, thepresser fmember is first transferred from its remote po sition into longitudinalalinementwith the suppbrtedtoe piece andfthen advanced longitudinallybf the toe piece to press the top margin of H member against the margin of the i "It isa further object of the invention to impi'ove the manufacture of shoes having moccasin toepieceskby providing for the formation in the toepiece of a convexity which will conform the toe piece generallizlto the shape of the top of the forepart of the last on which the shoe is to be .formed. i

provided respectively with convex and concave surfaces constructed andarranged to co-act on a toe piece positioned between them to form a convexity therein and one of the dies is provided with a member for acting in' the formationof a marginal flange in the toe piece. illustrated, the toe piece is supported between a fixed die provided with a convex surface which acts against the central portion of the toe end of the toe piece anda movable die which, as herein illustrated, also functions as a flange forming memberand is provided with a concave surface whichcoactsywith the convex surface of the fixed member.

In one aspect thereof the present. invention resides in a method of making shoes having: moccasin toe pieces which comprises forming a marginal flange ina, moccasin toe piece between dies, and while the toe pieceis held between the dies securing the top margin of a shoe part, for example avamp member, to the marginal flange ofthe toe piece.

In' a furthernaspect thereof ingl moccasin toe pieceswhich comprises form- As herein p the present 'in-. vention resides in'a method ofmaking shoes having a'rconveidty in theinterior of a loose toe piece and thereafter attaching another shoe part to the margin of. the toe piece. In forming 'a convexity in the .toe piece; the forward margin of the toe'piece'is contracted and the contracted condition is maintainedpby securing a shoe part, for. example, a VampJmember, tothe toe piece, edge1to edge, w

In another aspect, the invention comprises a method or. making .shoes having moccasin toe pieces characterized by the. formation of a bulge.

in the toe end of the peripheral part of the shoe.

As hereintillustrated; the bulge is formed in the atthe sides of the vamp is contracted somewhat while the margin at the toe end of the vamp remains substantially non-contracted. After the toe piece and the vamp member have been chine with the work positioned betweenthem;

Fig. 3 is an enlarged view in side elevation illustrating the machine in operation on a. shoe, both the upper and lower portions of the machine being broken away and certain operating parts shown in section; a

Fig. 4 is a section on-the line IV-IV of Fig. 3;

Fig. 5 is a section through the center of the fixed die and a toe piece mounted thereon;

Fig. 6.is a section similar to Fig. 5 showing the toe piece molded betweenthe dies;

Fig. '7 is a section similar to Fig. 6 showing the upstanding margin at the toe end of a vamp in position to be attached to the toe piece;

Fig.8 is a section similar to Fig. '7 showing the margin of the vamp after attachment to the toe piece;

Fig. 9 is a section on the line IXIX of Fig. 7;

Fig.j10 isa'section on the line-X-X of Fig. 8;

Fig..1l is a longitudinal section through the center of the forepart of a partially completed moccasin type shoe.

Referring tovFig. 1, the illustrated machine comprises astandard upon which is mounted a' head 22. Slidably mounted in bearings in the head are two parallel vertical shafts, one. of

I which is'shown at 24 in Fig, 1. A crosshead26 issecured to the upper portions of the shafts 24 and yieldingly held against downward movement by springs 28 surrounding the shafts. A curved arm 30 extends forwardly and downwardly from the crosshead 26 and has secured to its lower end a plate 32. 7 Two parallel plates 34 are secured to opposite sidesof the plate 32 and extend downwardly beyond the'lower end of the plate 32 and are provided at their lower extremities with a cross pin 36 which affords a mounting for any one of a plurality of movable dies for shaping moccasin toe pieces, onesuch die being shown at 38in Fig. 1. For mounting the die 38on the cross pin 36, a plate 40 is secured to a raised portion of the die andextends upwardly between the plates-34. The plate 4031s" provided with a slot 42 which is open at the rear end of the plate and extends forwardly from its open end to the central portion of the plate then upwardly just far enoughto provide a seat for the cross pin 36.

The movable die 38 operates against a fixed die 44 removably mounted on the forward end of an arm '46 extending downwardly and forwardly from the head 22. Referring to Fig. 2, the movable 1 die 38 is held against rocking movement by a screw 48 and a latch 56. The screw 48 is mounted' in a lug 52 on the plate 32 and the latch 56 is pivotallymountedona slide 51 which is adjustably secured to the plate 32 by a screw 59 extending through a longitudinal slot provided elevation ilin the slide. against the latch 56 during the operation of the dies, a screw is mounted in a lug 54 on the plate 32 and arranged to engage the upper end of the slide 51. By adjusting the screw 48 and For taking the upward thrust.

the latch 56 vertically, the movable die 38 may be leveled or brought into parallelism to the fixed die 44. The fixeddie 4 4 isre niovablymounted on the arm 46 inorderto pe rmit interchange of fixed dies 'of'di'fferentsize's. To'this' end the arm 46 is provided at its forward end with a lines in Fig. 4. As ShOWI'lk-il'l Fig; 5,this-;sprlng engages the bottom surface of the tongue! and holds the fixed die in-position while permitting the die tobe moved upwardly by the'operator; sufficiently to withdraw the stud from the recess in-the tongue to permit the dieto bemoved forwardly oiT the tongue. I

For forming an elevation or convexity. in the forward portionot a .toepiece to give the toe piece a. shape similarhto the shape of the corresponding portion of the last on which the moccasin is to be shaped, the fixed die 44 has a raised portion 60 (Fig; 5) and the movable. die-38 is" provided with a concave recess 62 (Fig. 6-) complemental to the raised portioniof the fixed die.

For forming an upstanding marginal flange in the toe piece, a thin'cu'r-ved'plate 64 is secured to the fixed die 44; (Figs. land 5) i and arranged to extend upwardly beyond 'theupper surface of the die about one eighth of an inch,'or slight-: ly more than the thickness of" the toe piece."

Referring to Fig 6, the plate 64 is spacedfrom" the edge face of the movable die 38,'when the "die is in operating position as shown in Figs. 6 and'8,- to the extent of the thickness of the toe piece and the downward movement" of the die 38*causes the margin of the toe piece to be bent upwardly and brought into engagement with the edgeface of the die thereby formingan upstanding: flange thereon. For operating the movable die 38 a-treadle 33 is pivoted at its rear end between two brackets 16 and is connected by a link 4| to the horizontal arm of a bell crank? lever 43 pivoted at its elbow to a lever 45' andpivotediat the upper end of its vertical arm to an L-sharaedlever which in turn is pivoted to the machine standard. The bell crank lever 43 and the'flL- shaped lever 41 act as a toggle to operate the1leve'r45 and a pin 49 at the endof the lever'41 limits the counterclockwise movement'of, the bell crank lever '43 and determines the straightened position of the toggle as illustrated in Fig.13 Therear end of the lever 45 is pivoted betweenthe brackets 16 and its forward endis connected by an extensible link 5| .to a cross head l5! connectingthe lower ends of the shafts 24.1 For breaking the toggle upon release of the treadle 39 by the operator, the illustrated machine isprovided witha spring 53, the upper end of which is connected'to a lug extending forwardly from the lever 41 and the its downward movement, as illustrated in Figs.

erably; the end of 2,198,866 6 to8, a-treadle latch 55 (Fig. 1) is pivoted toithe treadle 39 and arranged to engage a ratchet 69.

For working the margin at the toe end of amoccasin bottom into engagement with the flange :iormed in the toe piece, the illustrated machine is provided with a resilient presser member 66 (Figs. 1 and 4) which, as herein-illustrated, is a pieceof sheet rubber shaped to fit the top mare gin of the toe end of a vamp member and con. fined between two metal plates. This presser member moves lengthwise of .the shoe toward its heel end to bring the top marginof. the toe end of the vamp member into engagement withthe marginal flange provided in; the toe piece. Prefthe fixed die Mhas secured thereto a small piece of leather or similar-substance 68 (Fig. 7) which has a form similar to i the toe endof the last on whichitheshoe is to be shaped. The prcssermember 6B, in working the margin of the vamp. member into engagement with the flange of the toe piece, bends the toe end of the vamp member aboutthe member EB form-L ing in it a bulge corresponding to the heightwise curvature of the toeendof a last, and C011". tracting the side margins of the vamp member'as itiis brought into engagement withthe flange of the toe piece (Fig. 8). The: presser member 66 is provided with a stem 10.. (Fig. 3) whichis adjustably mounted in the forward end of a car rier 72. In its operation the pressenmem ber moves upwardly fromits rest position, illustrated inFig. l, to a position in which it is in alinement with the margin of the toe piece and then moves toward the toe piece in a downwardly inclined rectilinear path into its position illustrated in Fig. 3. For operating the presser member 66, the illustrated machine is provided with a treadle M (Fig. l) which is pivoted at its rear end between thebrackets l6. Also pivoted between the brackets 16 is anarm l8 the forward portion of which is connected to the treadleby a link ant The arm 78 is connected by linkage 82 to the rear end oi alever 84 the forward portion of which is formed to provide a rectilinear guideway for the carrier 12 on which the presser member 661s mounted. The lever 84 is pivoted between upward extensions of a pair of brackets .85 exte-nol-. ing forwardly from the upper portion of. the ma chine standard. The linkage 82 comprises a 1 headed rod 86 slidably mounted in a sleeve 83 and surrounded by a spring 90 contained withinthe lower part of the sleeve and operating to hold the rod 86 yieldingly at the limit of its upward movement relatively to the sleeve.) The treadle i4 operatesthroughthe connections above described to swing the lever 84 in a clockwise direction as seen in Fig. 1 until it is arrested, by a roll 87 pivotally mounted between theforward endsof the brackets 85 and located within an arcuate slot 89 provided in a downward extension 98 of the lever' 84. After the lever 84 comes to the limit of its clockwise movement, the presser member 66 is in longitudinal alinement with the toe piece held between the dies 38 and 4.4 and further depression of the treadle M operates through mechacarrier]?! nisrn now to be described to slide the through the guideway provided in the lever 84 thereby to operate the presser member 66, the

spring Si] in the linkage 82 permitting the linkage to extend to accommodate further downward movement of the treadle after the clockwise movement of the lever 84 is arrested. An upturned end portion 92 of the arm 18 is connected by a pair of chains 94 to the upper ends of a pair.

of levers 96 fixed to a cross shaft 91in the down- .(Fig 2). toe pieceon the fixed die 44 to his satisfaction,

method of making anovel. type of moccasin shoe shown in Figs. 3 and 11, and illustrated and described in my co-pending application, Ser. No. 99,691; filed SeDtemberB, 1935. This shoe is providedwith a vamp member which issecuredtoa sole before it is assembled witha. toe piece. After being secured to the sole, the vamp. member is normally in upstanding relation to the sole and its top margin is conveniently arrangcdfor attachment to. the toepiece. The toe end of a vamp member of this type is illustratedin Figs. 7 and .8 and identified by the numeral H0 anda toe piece I l2 is illustrated in Figs. 5 to 8 at various stages in theoperationbf the machine. In ace positioned on thefixeddie 44. as illustrated in Figbwith its margin extending beyond the plate 6 1. The operator positions the toepiece :by. eye,

gaging the position 'of the periphery of the toe piece with. relation to the edge face of the movabledien38xwhich he moves downwardly into ad jacent relation to the toe piece for this purpose [.After the operator has positioned the he operates the trea'dle .39 to force the movable die 38 downwardly into its position illustrated in Fig. 6 and the treadle latch 55 holds the treadle against return movement during the operation. of the presser member 66. The cperatorthen positions the vamp member I It! for attachment to the toe piece, locating its bevelededge face H8 ope posite the beveled edge face H4 of the toe piece (Fig. '7) The operator then depresses the treadle M to cause the presser member 66 to move upward'ry fromits position illustrated in Fig. 1 into aposition of alinement with the toe piece, then rearwardly in a rectilinear pathptoward thetoe end oft-the vamp member. In the" course of its rectilinear movement, the curved edge face of the presser member GBengages thetop margin .01 thevamp member, asshown in Figs. 41 and 8, and

presses the beveled edge face of the vamp mem-- ber against the beveled edge faceof the toe piece with sufli'cient pressure torcause them to be bondi cordance with the presentmethod the toe piece is ed together by cement previously applied to said edge faces, While the toe end'of the vamp memher is held against the toe piece by the presser member 665, the operator manually pressesthe beveled margin at the sides of the vamp member against the beveled margin at. opposite sides of the. toe piece. The operator then releases the treadle l4 permitting the presser mem berfifi and its operating parts to return to their rest posi-v tion. by their ownweight and unlatches the treae dle 39 whereupon the springs lift the movable dieilll away from the toe piece and return the treadle 35 and its connections to their rest positions. 1 y i i I The movable'die 38,111 the course of its operation on the toe piece Hibends the margin of the toe piece downwardly about theraised portion of the fixed die 44 causinga substantial contrac tion of the margin of the toe end of the toe piece. The contracted condition of the marginal portion offthe toe piece thus produced is secured and'maintained by the cement attachment of-the beveled edge face H8 of the vamp member to the beveled edge face of 'the toe piece. In bending the toe end of the vamp member about the member 68-onthe fixed die 44, the presser member 66 moves in a rectilinear path pressing'the margin at the toe end of the vamp member against the toe piece without any gathering action or contraction of the toe portion of said margin. It willbe understood, however, that this operation substantially reduces'the length of the beveled top margin of the vamp member and contracts the side'portions'of said margin. The side margins of the toe, piece,'since they are not themselves contracted in the course of the assembling-operation, are capable of maintaining the contracted condition of the side portions of the top margin of the vamp member after cement attachment of said margins, thus promoting the continuance of the rounded or bulged condition created at the toe end of. the vamp member by the operation of the presser'member 66. Similarly: the top margin at the toe end of the vamp member, since it is not contracted by the operationof the presser member 66, is capable of maintaining the contracted condition created in the toe end of the toe piece by the operation of the movable die 38, thus'maintaining the convexity formed in the toe piece.

After the assembled shoe is removed from the illustrated machine,'the toe piece is permanently secured to the vamp member by a seam extending through their beveled margins. This seam may be sewn by hand or by a machine such as thatillustrated and described in United States Letters Patent No. 1,950,386, granted March 13, 1934, on an application. filed in the name of Fred'Ashworth. This seamnot only permanent ly'securesthe toe piece to the vamp member, but affords further means for maintaining the contracted condition created at opposite sides of the top margin of the vamp member and the contracted condition produced at the toe end of the toe piece. The bulge in the toe'end of the vamp member and the convexity in the toe piece give the forepart of the shoe the general shape of the forepart of thelast on which the shoe is mounted afterthe stitching operation, and consequently there is little if any stretching of the stock of the forepart of the shoe in mountingv it on its last and for this reason the forepart of the shoe is likely to retain the shape of the forepart of the last permanently.

Certain styles of shoes of the type above de- I scribed are not bulged at thetoe end as is the shoe, the toe end of which is illustrated in Fig. 8.

In assembling shoes of this type in accordance with the method of the presentinvention, the member 68 at the toe end of the fixed die 44 is omitted in order that the upstanding portion of the toe end of the vamp member will remain substantially straight, as illustrated in Fig. '7, after the assembling operation has been performed. In assembling such shoes the presser member 66 may be dispensed with, if desired, and the toe end of the vamp member manually attached to the'toe piece. l 7

Having thus described my invention, what I claim'as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. In a machine for use in the manufacture of shoes having moccasin toe pieces, a toe piece supporting means including means projecting from the supporting means and constructed. and

arran ged'to engage the margin of a toe piece supported thereon', and means co-acting with said supporting means to form a marginal flange in the toepiece, the height of said projecting means being substantially less than the width of said marginal flange.

2. In amachine foruse in the manufacture of shoes having moccasin toe pieces, a toe piece supporting member having a projection constructed and arranged to engage the margin of a toe piece supported thereon, said projection providing one wall of a recess in the work supporting member, and means for forcing the main portion of the toe piece into said recess and thereby forming a flange in its margin, the height of said wall being substantially less than the width of said flange.

I 3. In a. machine for use in the manufacture of shoes having moccasin toe pieces, a pair of toe piece engaging members constructed and arranged to hold the toe piece between them, and means for pressing the top margin of a shoe part against the margin of the toe piece.

4. In a machine for use in the manufacture of shoes having moccasin toe pieces, a pair of toe piece engaging members constructed and arranged to hold the toe piece between them, and a member for pressing the toe portion of the top margin of a shoe part against the margin of the toe endof the toe piece.

5. In, a machine for use in the manufacture of shoes having moccasin toe pieces,"a presser for pressing the top margin of a shoe part against a the presser to press the top margin of said shoe,

part against the margin of the toe piece.

6. In a machine for use in the manufacture of shoes having moccasin toe pieces, a presser for pressing the top margin of a shoe part against the margin of a sup-ported toe piece, a carrier for the presser, a member on which the carrier is mounted, and an actuator which first moves said member to transfer the presser from a remote positioninto longitudinal alinement with the supported toe piece and which thereafter moves the carrier in a rectilinear path relatively to said member to advance the presser longitudinally of the toe piece and cause it to press the top margin of said shoe part against the margin of the toe piece.

'7. In a machine for use in the manufacture of shoes having moccasin toe pieces, a presser for pressing the top margin of a shoe part against a supported toe piece, a carrier for the presser, a lever in which the carrier is slidably mounted for rectilinear movement, and an actuator which first operates on the lever to transfer the presser from a remote position into longitudinal alinement with the supported toe piece and then operates on the carrier to advance the presser longitudinally of the toe piece thereby to press the top margin of said shoe part against the margin of the toe piece.

8. In a machine for use in the manufacture of shoes having moccasin toe pieces,a presser for resting the lever after it has soytransferred the pressenuand mea-ns for advancing the presser longitudinally ofthe supported toe piece to press the top marginof said shoe part against the margin of the supported toe piece.

I 9. In a machine for usein the manufacture of 'shoes'having moccasin toe piecesya pair of dies having thegeneralshape of a moccasin toe piece and provided :respectivelywith convex and concave surfaces constructed and arranged to coact on a toe piece positioned between them to form a convexity therein, and a member on one of said dies/for forming a marginal flange in the toe piece.

10. In a machine for use in the manufacture of shoes having moccasin toepieces, a die provided with a convex surface which acts on a toe piece to form a convexity therein, and means for forming a marginal flange in the toe piece including a flange former projecting from said die.

11. In a machine for use in the manufacture of shoes having moccasin toe pieces, a die provided with a convex surface which acts on the toe piece to form a convexity therein, a flange former projecting from said die, and another die constructed and arranged to co-act with the first-mentioned die in convexing and flanging I the toe piece.

12. In a machine for use in the manufacture of shoes having moccasin toe pieces, a die having the general shape of a moccasin toe piece and provided with a convexity for shaping the toe piece, a flange former projecting from the periphery of said die, and another die provided with an edge face constructed and arranged to co-act with the flange former to form a marginal flange in the toe piece. "13. In a machine for shaping moccasin toe pieces, a support for any one of a plurality of m terchangeable toe piece shaping dies, a carrier constructed and arranged to receive any one of a plurality of interchangeable toe piece shaping dies, means for actuating the carrier to cause a die mounted thereon to co-act with a die on the support to shape a toe piece positioned between them, and means on the carrier for positioning a die mounted thereon in parallelism to a die on said support, 14. In a machine for shaping moccasin toe pieces, a support for any one of a plurality of interchangeable toe piece shaping dies, a carrier constructed and arranged to receive any one of a plurality of interchangeable toe piece shaping dies, means for actuating the carrier to cause a die mounted thereon to coact with a die on the support to shape a toe piece positioned between them, means on the carrier for positioning a die mounted thereon in parallelism to a die on said support, and a latch for holding a die in determinate position onthe carrier.

15.In a machine for shaping moccasin toe pieces, a support for any one of a plurality of die mounted thereon to co-act with a die on the interchangeable toe piece shaping dies, a carrier constructed and arranged to receive any one of a plurality of interchangeabletoe piece shaping dies, means for actuating the carrier to cause a support to shape a toe piece positioned between them, anda carrier constructed and arrangedto receive any one of a plurality of presser members for pressing the top margin of a shoe part against the margin of a toe piece held betweensaid dies.

16. That method of making shoes having moccasin toe pieces which comprises forming a marmember, and thereafter attaching and while the toe piece is held'between the dies securing the top margin of a shoe part to the marginal flange of the toe piece'.

i 17. That method of making shoes having moccasin toe pieces which comprises forming a marginal flange in a moccasin toe piece between dies one of which aiford-s an abutment for the flange thus formed, and -vlhile the toe piece is held between the diesflwith its marginal flange against said abutment securing the top margin of a shoe part to the marginal flange of the toe piece.

18. Thatmethod of making shoes having moccasin toe pieces which comprises forming a convexity in the interior of aloose toe piece, and thereafter attaching the toe piece to another shoe part. I

19. That method of making shoes having moccasin toe pieces which comprises contracting the.

forward margin of a toe piece thereby to form a convexity in the interior of the toe piece, and attaching the toe piece thus formed to another shoe part.

20. That method of making shoes having moccasin toe pieces which comprises providing a toe piece and a vamp member, bending the margin at the toe end of the vamp member inwardly over a form to produce a bulge therein, simultaneously contracting the top margin at the sides of the vamp member, and thereafter attaching the toe piece to the vamp member.

21. That method of making shoes having moccasintoe pieceswhich comprises providing a toe piece and a vamp member, bending the margin at the toe end of the vamp member inwardly over a form to produce a bulge therein, simultaneously contracting the top margin at the sides of the vamp member, forming a convexity in the interior of the toe piece, and thereafter attaching the toe piece to the vamp member.

22. That method of making shoes having moccasin toe pieces which comprises contracting the margin atthe toe end of a toe piece, bending the toe end of a vamp member over a form to produce a bulge therein, simultaneously contracting the top margin at opposite sides of the vamp the toe piece to the vamp member edge to edge.

23. That method of making shoes having moccasin toe pieces which comprises contracting the margin at the forward end of a toe piece, form ing a peripheral flange in the toe piece, and thereafter attaching a vamp member to the toe piece edge to edge.

v 24. That method of making shoes having moccasin toe pieces which comprises contracting the forward margin of a toe piece thereby to form a convexity inthe interior of the toe piece, positioning a vamp member relatively to the. toe piece with their top edges in alinement, forming a bulge in the toe end of the vamp member, in the formationof said bulge contracting the top margin at opposite sides of the vamp member while leav 'ing said top margin substantially non-contracted at the toe end of the vamp member, and securing the contracted condition of said shoe parts by uniting the contracted forward margin of the toe piece to the non-contracted margin at the toe tion of said .convexity contracting; the forward margin of the toe piece, and securing-thee con:- tracted condition of the margin of the toe piece by means of a sewn seam. is r 26. That method of making shoes havingmoccasin toe pieces which comprises forming an e1esewnlseam uniting thetoe piece to another shoe part.

,, 27. That method of making shoes havingmocgreases \casinv'pieces'which comprises forming a convex,-

ity in the interior of a toe piece, in the formation of said convexity contracting the forward, margin of the toe piece, forming a bulge in the toe end of a vamp member, in the formation of, said 5' bulge contracting the top margin at opposite sides of the vamp'member, and securing the con tracted condition of the forward margin of the toe piece and opposite sides of the vamp member by means of a sewn seam uniting the toe-piece 10 to the vamp member, edge to edge. u r

KARL ENGEL. l 

